Improvement in machines for sewing shoes



W. DUBHEMIN.

Machines for Sewing Shoes.

Patehted July 28,1874.

uremia i \N'Uuussas U I ED STA'IES PATENT OFFICE.

VILLIAM DUOHEMlN, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE BOSTONTURNED-SHOE ASSOCIATION, OF SAME PLACE.

IMPROVEMENT IN MACHINES FOR SEWING SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 153,428, dated July 28,1874; application filed July 31, 1873.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM DUCHEMIN, of Boston, in the county ofSuffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented a certain new anduseful Machine for Sewing the Soles to.

the Uppers of a Turned Welt Shoe, of which the following is aspecification:

My invention relates to a machine for sewing a shoe invented by, andsecured to, me by Letters Patent of the United States, entitledImprovement in Turned Shoes, dated June 24, 1873, and numbered 140,258,and is of the class known as a single-thread machine, the.

exact nature of which will be best understood by reference to thespecifications and drawlugs.

Figurel is an elevation of my machine. Fi 2 is a vertical sectionthrough the needle-bar. Fig. 3 is an elevation of the spring-looper.Fig. 4 is a side elevation of the same. Fig. 5 is a plan, showing theupper end. Fig. 6 is a side elevation of the arm for supporting the shoewhile being sewed. Fig. 7 'is a plan, showing the top of the same. Fig.Sis a plan, showing the sewing guide and welter.

Let M M represent the frame of the machine. In this frame I hang theshaft S. Upon this shaft S I hang a supplemental frame, O said framebeing held in position vertically by the projections O 0 which slide inrecesses made for them in the frame M. The shaft S is so connected withthe frame 0 that though it may revolve freely it cannot movelongitudinally, except the frame 0 also moves. The movement of the shaftS and frame O is effected by means of the side cam O and thecounter-spring P. The operation is as follows: As the cam O revolves,the wedge portion, indicated at O", contacts with the boss 0 and, as itcontinues to revolve, forces the shaft and frame to the left. As the camcontinues its revolution the wedge part passes the boss or projection C,so as to allow the spring P to act against the wheel T, and thus throwthe shaft and frame to the right, into the position indicated in Fig. 1.The frame 0 has attached to it the needle-bar D D and the pressure-footF, the needle-bar I) and pressure-foot F partaking of its motion. Theauxiliary pressurebar E slides vertically in the fixed frame M,

and passes through slots in the movable frame C, so that it does notinterfere with the motion of the same. The pressure bar F is thrown upby the cam B, and is drawn down by spiral springs, one of which is shownat F.' In the face of the cam B I have a camgroove, (not shown in thedrawings,) into which a stud, D%, Fig. 2, attached to the needle-bar D,enters, so that, as the cam B revolves, the needle-bar receives apositive up-and-down motion. Upward motion is given to the auxiliarypressure-foot E by the cam E? working against a stud, E Downward motionis given to the same by the spring E. The needlehook guard D is attachedto a sliding collar, D which is fitted to the needle-bar D. (See Fig.2.) D is a spiral spring within the collar D so arranged as to throw thecollar and guard D upward against the shoulder d of the needle-bar D. Nis a clutch-lever, attached part D of the needle-bar is above the end ofthe lever Nthen the lower part, N of the lever N may be thrown out bythe spring N As the needle-bar descends the part D will come in contactwith the upper end of the lever N and throw it out, causing the lowerend, N, to move inwardly and press against the bar D. As this lever N isflexible the point can rest against the needle-barD, and be ready tospring into the joint between the shoulder on the needle-bar and theupper end of the collar D This takes place during the upward stroke ofthe needle-bar, and thus holds the guard D down so as to cover the barbof the needle until it has passed the loop. Then the continued upwardmotion of the needlebar will cause the latch N Figs. 1 and 2, to passupward and behind the lever N, holding it out, as shown at d, Fig. 2,until the ends at 01 pass each other; then the lower end of the in Fig.l.

lever N is thrown out by the spring N. This leaves the uullal' l) freeto be thrown up by the spring 1)", and it takes with it the guard orcast-ofi D The upper end of the lever N, and the lower end of the latchN, are each provided with lateral projections, as shown One or both ofthese projections are wedge shape, and so arranged that, as theneedle-bar descends, the upper end of the le- Ver N rests against theshoulder D and passes between the needle-bar and latch N but in theascending stroke of the bar the lever N passes outside of the latch NThe arm or standard H is made as shown in Figs. 1, 6, and 7. The upperend has a hookedprojection, 11, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7. The needle inits downward stroke passes through the recess h, Fig. 7. This projectionH runs in the channel of the sole, and assists in guiding the shoe. HFig. 6, is a guard-piece, which may be attached to the arm H, and isintended as an auxiliary guide to be used in some oases to rest againstthe edge of the sole, and assist in guiding it. The looperL L, shown inFigs.

1, 3, 4, and 5, consists of a spring part, L, and a head, L. an inclineplane, p, Figs. 1, 3, 4, and 5, and a thread-tube, t, through which thethread passes, as shown. The needle in descending strikes the incline pand throws the head of the looper back; then the needle receives itslateral motion, and passes by the head to the left, and the looper fliesback into position.

This carries the thread across the hook in the.

needle, and as the needle ascends the thread is carried through thework; then the needle receives its lateral motion back to the right.This lateral motion of the needle is regulated to suit the length of thestitch required. On the right side of the frame M the lever K is fittedwith a pivot-joint. This lever terminates in a spring, to which isfitted, with a movable joint, the sewing-guide K .(See Figs. 1 and 8.)This guide is so formed that it will press the sole firmly against theupper surface of This head part of the looper has the arm H, its outsideedge being bent downward, as shown at K and presses against the edge ofthe shoe and assists in keeping it in place. K, Fig. 8, is a small stripof metal attached to K and has an opening, K", Fig. 8, through which thewelt passes. The welt passes between the bar K and the plate K and isdrawn through that, is fed along by the lateral motion of the needle,and, of course, moving as the shoe moves, is sewed with the vamp to thesole. K is a latch, used for holding the guide K K firmly down againstthe shoe.

To use my machine I proceed as follows: The shoe is channeled andlasted, as fully set forth in the specification of my patent alreadyreferred to. The sewing-guide K K is turned away from the rest H, and.the shoe placed upon the rest, the projection H being in the channel.Now, the sewingguide K K is brought back to place, and the welt passedthrough the welt-guide K its end projecting under the needle. Now, themachine is started and the sewing takes place automatically.

I claim as my invention-- 1. The fixed supporting-arm H and looper L Lp, in combination with the needle-bar and its horizontally-reciprocatingcarrying frame 0 said frame being also provided with castofl' andpresser-foot, substantially as specified.

2. The needle-bar D d, carrying the sliding guard D D, which is held inits normal position by a spring, D in combination with the bar N, latchN and spring N substantially as specified.

3. The fixed arm H, in combination with the elastic lever K, hingedyielding presser-plate K, which is provided with a guide-lip, K and awelt-guide, and detent K substantially as and for the purposesspecified.

WILLIAM DUOHEMIN.

Witnesses:

FRANK. G. PARKER, JOHN J. HALEY.

